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Everything You Need to Know About Princess Cut Diamonds

Quick Summary

Princess cut diamonds are square brilliant-cut stones with pointed corners that deliver sparkle rivaling round cuts. Because their faceting can reveal slightly more color, many buyers opt for higher color grades to maintain a bright, crisp appearance. Their pointed corners benefit from secure settings like V-prongs or bezels for added durability. Princess cuts are highly versatile, shining in solitaires, halos, three-stone designs, and pavé bands. Overall, they combine bold elegance with impressive brilliance in a distinctive square silhouette.

There’s a refined, romantic appeal to a princess cut diamond. Its sharp angles and clean lines create a striking sparkle that feels both modern and deeply meaningful. With its bold geometry and brilliant shimmer, the princess cut offers a fresh alternative to traditional shapes while still carrying the timeless sentiment of an engagement ring. And while round brilliants may remain the classic favorite, the princess cut has become a beloved choice for brides who want something stylish with a contemporary edge.

Before choosing one, it helps to understand what makes this shape so beautifully unique. This guide explores the features that define the princess cut, from its captivating faceting to the key criteria for selection, and why it continues to be one of the most regal yet romantic cuts for bridal jewelry.

2, 2.5 and 3ct Princess Cut Diamonds

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

A princess cut diamond is a square or slightly rectangular stone with pointed corners and serious sparkle. Unlike step-cut shapes such as emerald or asscher, the princess cut uses a brilliant faceting style (typically featuring 57 to 58 facets) that reflects light in dazzling flashes of fire. The result is a diamond that combines the linear precision of a square shape with the scintillation you'd expect from a round cut.

History of the Princess Cut

The princess cut was created in the 1960s by Arpad Nagy, a London-based diamond cutter, who called his square brilliant-cut design the "profile cut." However, the version we know today was truly perfected in 1979. This design, which was initially called the "quadrillion cut," featured 58 facets and maximized sparkle. The name "princess cut" eventually became the popular term for this style.

The princess cut became increasingly prevalent from the 1980s onward and is now the second most popular diamond shape after round brilliants, particularly for engagement rings. Its clean, lines and exceptional sparkle appeal to people who want something contemporary yet classic. 

Why Choose a Princess Cut Diamond?

Princess cut diamonds deliver sophistication without sacrificing luminosity. Their crisp shape creates a striking contrast to the softer, rounded styles that dominate jewelry counters, making them instantly recognizable and refreshingly different.

Here are some of the many reasons why so many couples choose a princess cut engagement ring:

  • Ultra Sparkle: The sparkle intensity is comparable to a round cut thanks to that intricate faceting pattern that catches and reflects light from every angle. The 57 to 58 facets create flashes of fire that make the diamond come alive.

  • Superior Value: Princess cuts offer better value compared to rounds, ovals, or pears because the square shape retains more of the original rough diamond during cutting. There's less waste in the cutting process, which translates to a lower price per carat. 

  • Incredible Versatility: This shape is compatible with practically all engagement ring styles. Princess cuts look stunning in solitaire settings where the diamond takes center stage, but they're equally beautiful surrounded by halos, flanked by side stones, or set into channel bands. 

  • Flattering Shape: The structured silhouette creates an elongating effect on the finger that's both elegant and eye-catching. The straight lines and clean angles give the ring a contemporary edge, making it perfect for anyone whose style leans toward sleek and chic rather than soft and romantic.

For anyone who wants their ring to reflect a modern sensibility while still delivering maximum radiance, the princess cut hits every mark. It's a shape that celebrates both style and glamor in equal measure.

How to Choose a Princess Cut Diamond

Unlike round brilliants, princess cut diamonds don't receive an official cut grade from the GIA, which means buyers need to evaluate the proportions themselves to ensure they’re getting optimal light performance. The quality of a princess cut comes down to several factors that work together to create that signature sparkle. 

  • Cut Quality: Since there's no standardized cut grade for any shape but round diamonds, you'll want to examine the depth and table percentages carefully. The ideal depth percentage falls between 68% and 75%, while the table percentage should also land in that same 68% to 75% range. Symmetry plays a huge role in how well the diamond reflects light, so look for stones with excellent or very good symmetry grades.

  • Length-to-Width Ratio: This measurement determines whether your princess cut appears perfectly square or slightly rectangular. For a true square look, aim for a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. If you prefer a subtly elongated appearance that creates even more finger-flattering length, ratios between 1.05 and 1.15 deliver that slightly rectangular shape while still maintaining the princess cut's distinctive outline

  • Color: Princess cuts tend to show a bit more color than round brilliants. Their shape and facet arrangement don’t return light as strongly as a round, so any warmth in the diamond can be slightly more noticeable, especially near the corners. Staying in the G to H color range or higher helps the stone appear bright and white.

  • Clarity: The faceting pattern of princess cuts can help camouflage certain inclusions, but it can also make others more visible depending on their location. A VS2 clarity grade or higher typically ensures an eye-clean appearance where flaws aren't visible to the naked eye. Pay particular attention to inclusions near the corners, as these areas are already vulnerable to chipping, and internal flaws can compromise structural integrity even further.

  • Carat Weight: When choosing a princess cut diamond by carat weight, focus on how size, cut quality, and proportions work together. Princess cuts retain more weight in the pavilion, so a 1-carat stone may appear slightly smaller than other shapes. Compare measurements, not just carats, and prioritize excellent symmetry and polish to maximize brilliance. Balance carat weight with clarity and color so the diamond looks bright, well-cut, and visually impactful.

Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds

Princess cuts adapt beautifully to various setting styles, from minimalist solitaires to elaborate halos, giving you plenty of creative freedom. Their versatility means they look stunning in virtually any setting style you choose. Here's how different popular settings interact with the princess cut:

  • Solitaire: A classic solitaire like The Kamellie puts the princess cut front and center, letting its beauty do all the talking. 

  • Vintage: Princess cuts look exceptional in vintage-inspired settings featuring intricate milgrain detailing, filigree work, and ornate metalwork.

  • Halo: A halo engagement ring like The Halo Twig features a luminous diamond border that makes the stone appear larger while adding an extra layer of shimmer.

  • Three-Stone: Three-stone settings represent the past, present, and future, making it a romantic choice for a princess cut diamond.

  • Pave: Adding diamonds along the band in a pave setting creates continuous sparkle that extends the brilliance beyond the center stone. 

Each setting style brings something different to the table, so your choice comes down to balancing aesthetics, protection, and how the ring fits into your daily life.

Conclusion

Princess cut diamonds combine intense sparkle and exceptional value in one stunning package. Their sharp lines and contemporary appeal make them a standout choice for anyone who wants a ring that looks current and sophisticated. From understanding cut proportions to protecting those pointed corners with the right setting, knowing what makes a quality princess cut helps you choose a diamond that delivers lasting beauty.

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